Khiva – a time portal to the past


Asia

Khiva – a time portal to the past


Khiva is over 2,500 years old. This is a unique city-museum. And its main attraction is the ancient inner city with houses and narrow streets, mosques and minarets, madrasah, surrounded by walls 6 meters thick.

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Ichan-Kala

Ichan-Kala fortress

Built over the centuries (ancient architectural monuments date back to the 14th century), fortifications and palaces, mosques and madrasahs, mausoleums and minarets, caravanserais and baths turned Ichan-Kala into a unique city-monument.

In Khiva, there was a traditional division of the city into two separate parts from each other: Ichan-Kala (literally: inner defensive circle) – an inner city (Shahristan) and Dishan-Kala (outer defensive circle) – an outer city (rabad). Shakhristan Ichan-Kala is separated from Dishan-Kala by thick walls 10 m high and more than 2.5 km long. The walls of Ichan-Kala as the main attraction of Khiva are depicted on many tourist souvenirs.

Judging by the archaeological data, the walls of Khiva already existed in the 5th-6th centuries. Archaeologists believe that the foundations of the walls of Ichan-Kala are partly the remains of an ancient structure around the caravanserai.

The inner city of Ichan-Kala is densely built up and therefore the sights of Khiva are located compactly, in a small area. Most of the buildings in Ichan-Kala have preserved their original appearance – stone-paved streets, mosques and minarets, madrasahs and cells.

You can get to the city through one of four gates: Bagcha-Darvaza – northern, Tash-Darvaza – southern, Palvan-Darvaza – eastern, Ata-Darvaza – western.

Ata-Darvaza is the central entrance to the city. They were built in the 19th century. At the beginning of the 20th century they were destroyed, and in 1975 they were restored, but the original look could not be reproduced. To the left of them is the old citadel of Kunya-Ark. Some parts of its construction date back to the 5th century. To the right of the gate is the Muhammad Amin Khan madrasah. A little ahead of the grandiose minaret Kalta-Minar. Closer to the city center, there is the Muhammad Rahim Khan II madrasah.

Palvan-Darvaza appeared at the beginning of the 19th century and is known as the "Slave" because it was here that the slave trade took place. In 1873, during the capture of the Khiva Khanate by the Russian troops, there were 10,000 slaves in the city. Passing through Palvan-Darvaza, one can see a marble slab with the inscription "Khiva city" and the date of the gate construction – 1221 (Hijri), which corresponds to 1806.

Closer to Palvan-Darvaz are the Tash Khauli palace and the Alla-Kuli-khan madrasah. To the south of the city center there is the mausoleum of Said Allauddin and the mausoleum of Palvan Mahmud, the Shergazi Khan madrasah, and the Islam-Khoja complex.



Dishan-kala

Dishan-kala

Dishan-kala is the outer city. The attraction is a network of neighborhoods surrounding Ichan-Kala.

The walls were erected in 1842 to protect against enemy raids. It took 3 years to build them. More than 200 thousand people worked on their construction and each of them worked for free 12 days a year. The length of the walls is 5.65 km, the height is more than 6 m, the thickness of the base is 4.6 m. The clay was mined two kilometers north of the city. Lake. That appeared later on this place is considered a saint. It was possible to get inside through 10 gates: northern – Khazarasp-Darvaza, Kosh-Darvaza, Gadailar, Gandimyan; northwestern – Dashyak; western – Angaryk, Shakhimardan; southwestern – Tozabag; southern ones – Shikhlar; eastern – Pishkanyk (Kumyaska).

Unlike Ichan-Kala, which almost completely retained its appearance, only some of the gates remained from the outer defensive walls.

Gandimyan-Darvaza (1842–1970) are named after a nearby village. Later the gates were demolished and a cotton ginning plant was built in their place. In 1970, the gate was restored according to old drawings and photographs.

Khazarasp-Darvaza (19th century) was rebuilt in 1842 from burnt bricks during the construction of the walls of Dishan-Kala. They consist of two large observation towers located on the sides. Above the passage there is an arched gallery with railings on the sides, the top of which is decorated with battlements.

Kosh-Darvaza (1912). The fasade has three cylindrical towers decorated with mosaics, two arched aisles and a traditional gallery with crenellated railings, service rooms on either side of the aisle.



Well Heyvak

Well Heyvak

Kheyvak is the most ancient landmark that still exists today in a small courtyard near the western gate of Ichan-Kala Ata-Darvaza.

According to one of the legends, Khiva was founded by Sim – the son of the biblical Noah. Driving through the desert, he fell asleep and saw fire in a dream and felt a terrible thirst. When he woke up, he began to dig a well in the desert. And quenching his thirst he would say "Hey wak! Hey vak!", Which means "How good" (Hey vak, Heiva, Khiva)

There is also another legend. For many centuries, the Great Silk Road passed through Central Asia. The merchants stopped here to rest and gain strength for the further journey. Having tasted the clear water from the source, the merchants exclaimed with pleasure "Hey wah!". That is how the well was named – Kheivak. Later, the village itself, which grew up in the middle of the endless desert around the well, was named Khiva.

The Kheyvak well is carefully preserved to this day by the old-timers. During the restoration of the well, traces of very ancient masonry and the remains of a domed structure, now covered by earth, were discovered.



Kunya-Ark fortress

Kunya-Ark fortress

Kunya Ark (old fortress) is located in the inner city of Khiva, Ichan-Kala.

The fortress dates back to the end of the 17th century. Upon completion of construction in 1688, Kunya-Ark turned out to be a kind of "fortress in a fortress", separated from Ichan-Kala by a high clay wall. It was built during the Sheibanid dynasty, and after 100 years it turned into an independent city. This is the oldest khan's residence in Khiva.

Here were located mosques, a reception hall, premises for the female part (harem), a mint, stables, workshops, living rooms and much more. There was a prison (zindan) with a place for the execution of sentences. Training battles and military parades and parades were held on the square.

The citadel was provided with everything necessary for the living of the khan and his entourage, as well as officials and the military.

The first building, built in 1686-1688, was destroyed in the middle of the 18th century, during the invasion of the Iranians. The complex that exists today was renovated at the beginning of the 19th century (1804–1806).



Madrasah of Khojamberdy-biya (Khurjum)

Madrasah of Khojamberdy-biya, Khurjum

The madrasah was erected in 1688 in Ichan-Kala near the eastern gate of Palvan-Darvaz. The educational institution is extremely small. It housed only 16 hujras and darskhona (domed square room). The entrance doors were decorated with wood carvings. Inside there is a very austere interior.

In 1834, Alla Kuli Khan built a new large mosque, and partially destroyed and rebuilt the existing one. Part of the city wall, located near the Khodjamberdy-biy madrasah, was liquidated, the facade of the new building was introduced into the courtyard of the old one. As a result, two small courtyards were formed, with different horizontal levels of rise and outwardly they began to resemble a saddle bag thrown over the back of a camel – khurjum. Because of this similarity, the people adopted a new name for the ancient madrasah – Khurjum madrasah.



Shergazi-khan madrasah

Shergazi-khan madrasah

This architectural monument was erected in the center of Ichan-Kala in 1718-1726 by order of the ruler Shergazi-khan. The construction was started during the campaign of the khan to Khorasan and it was erected by prisoners captured during the military campaign. After his death, the khan was buried in a small burial chamber in the west of his madrasah.

The main building is one-story. Only the entrance portal consisted of two floors. It had hujras for students to live in. Until now, the madrasah has not retained its decoration, or it did not exist at all.

Shergazi Khan was constantly in conversations with scientists and theologians and did a lot of useful things for those who wanted to learn. The famous Turkmen poet Makhtumkuli also studied there.



Madrasah Kutlug-Murad-Inaka

Madrasah Kutlug-Murad-Inaka

The construction of the madrasah was carried out in 1804-1812 by order of Kutlug Murad Inak. It is located opposite the Khodjamberdy-biy madrasah. They were separated only by a square with trade rows.

This building is notable for the fact that it is the first two-storey madrasah in the city. Its facade had a more ceremonial appearance. Interesting decorative elements were used here – embossed stamped terracotta that adorned the corner towers, and imitation of stalactites in a niche at the entrance. In contrast to the rich external decor, the interior of the madrasah looked rather modest, and if any decorations were present, then in very limited quantities.

The educational institution was quite large and became famous for its graduates, among whom were scientists, historians, poets and simply well-educated people. There were many hujras in which students lived.

In the courtyard of the madrasah, an underground reservoir was built, in which the entire population of Ichan-Kala took drinking water. Also, a summer mosque was built on the territory of the madrasah.

Kutlug-Murad-Inak expressed a desire to be buried in this particular madrasah. However, he died outside the walls of Ichan-Kala. According to legend, carrying the body of the deceased through the gates of the inner city was a bad sign. Then the elders went for a trick and found a way to fulfill his will. They destroyed the wall near the madrasah, and it turned out that it began to be located on the territory of Dishan-Kala. The body of Kutlug-Murad-Inak was carried through a hole in the wall and buried under the floor at the entrance of the building. Later, the wall of the fortress was restored.



Alla Kuli Khan's caravanserai

Alla Kuli Khan's caravanserai

There was a trading square in the city, where markets were located, including the slave market. With the development of trade with Bukhara, Persia and Russia, market areas became scarce.

At the beginning of the 19th century (1832-1833), by the order of Alla Kuli Khan, the Caravanserai was erected. He combined hotels for merchants, warehouses, places for trade.

The caravanserai is completely devoid of decor. Clay plaster covers the surface of the facades. Rough whitewashing on ganch plaster was done in the courtyard. Its layout is as simple and functional as possible: a large courtyard area and two-storey hujras. The presence of a through passage made it convenient to deliver goods in a pack manner and facilitated unloading.



Alla Kuli Khan Madrasah

Alla Kuli Khan Madrasah

The madrasah was built in 1834-1835 by order of Khan Alla-Kuli near the Caravanserai.

The name of Khan Alla-kuli is closely related to the strengthening of the city's power and strengthening of the country's borders. Residential buildings, palaces, shopping areas, mosques and caravanserais were actively developed. He wanted to turn the city into the most beautiful and attractive in Asia and erect a structure that would become one of the largest in Khiva. For this, they even destroyed part of the city wall, partially destroyed and rebuilt the Khodjamberdy-biy (Khurjum) madrasah.

The madrasah complex consists of 99 hujras, 2 mosques (winter and summer), an auditorium for lectures, a lobby at the entrance. Each hujra is equipped with a door and a window, its walls are plastered with ganch. The inner vaults of the hujras are not decorated with anything. The interior of the madrasah and mosque does not have any special decorations and large domes. The walls are even, the niches are deep and unsightly. All decorations are located on the outer walls.

Its main facade, which overlooks the courtyard of the Khojamberdy-biy madrasah, is made in the form of majolica of the Khorezm type in black-white and blue colors. Majolica, depending on its location, has a different pattern on different wall.

Currently, this building houses a museum that bears the name of the outstanding healer of antiquity – Abu Ali ibn Sina.



Tash-Khauli palace

Tash-Khauli palace

Built in the first half of the 19th century at the behest of Alla Kuli Khan, the Tash Khauli Palace affirms with its scale the power and grandeur characteristic of the Khorezm palace architecture of that era. A grandiose project was conceived like the Kunya-Ark citadel with many rooms, expensive paintings on the walls, courtyards, separate apartments for the khan and a harem for his wives, a huge reception room and administrative buildings.

The construction of the complex was carried out from 1830 to 1838 and took 8 years, while Alla Kuli Khan planned to complete the work in 2 years. He executed talented architects (they were impaled) who refused to build the palace on time.

The first was the residential quarter of the harem (separate rooms were arranged for each of the four khan's wives), then the mekhmonkhona (a place for official receptions) and the last – arzkhona (the courtroom). A continuous corridor separates the ruler's chambers and the abode of his wives from the official part. Khan's chambers in the palace are the most spacious and exquisitely decorated.

Many gloomy corridors connected separate parts of the palace. The courtyard was surrounded by two floors with rooms for the relatives of the ruler and his concubines.

The ceiling painting is done in a red-brown color scheme, which is in perfect harmony with the copper bars on the windows. All ornaments are unique, none repeats the other.



Mausoleum of Said Alauddin

Mausoleum of Said Alauddin

This mausoleum is the oldest monument in the city. The building itself has been rebuilt several times, so how it looked originally, what is the date of its foundation is not known for certain. The only known date of the death of the Sufi Sheikh Said Alauddin, who rested here, is 1303. Said Allauddin was a relative of the Prophet Muhammad and a follower of the great Sufi Kubra. The mausoleum over his grave was erected only 150 years later.

In the middle of the 19th century, by order of Alla Kuli Khan, a hall for praying believers was erected and the entrance to the mausoleum was changed. At the end of the 19th century, the mazar was supplemented by the burial of the Khiva Khan Said Muhammad, and the erection of a tombstone, which united the two graves.

Despite its inexpressiveness, the architecture of Said Allauddin's mausoleum is very interesting. Almost all the elements of the building are made of clay bricks, roughly hewn and not decorated in any way. This is not at all typical for the architectural style of Central Asia, but it is typical for buildings of the Mongolian period. When decorating the tomb, the style of the Khorezm artists of the 14th century was sustained.

For believers, the mausoleum is not just a cultural and historical monument, but also a place for an annual pilgrimage.



Madrasah of Muhammad Amin Khan

Madrasah of Muhammad Amin Khan

The architectural monument was erected opposite the Kunya-Ark fortress in 1852-1855 by order of the ruler Muhammad Amin Khan in the fourth year of his reign. In 1852, the construction of a grandiose minaret was also begun, which, according to the plan of the khan, was to surpass in height all those existing in Central Asia. However, it remained unfinished and is now called Kalta-Minar (short minaret).

Once upon a time, the madrasah of Muhammad Amin Khan was one of the richest educational institutions, and owned numerous vakuf lands. In addition, the building housed the Chancellery of the Supreme Muslim Court. A number of famous personalities of that era studied in the madrasah.



Minaret Kalta-Minar

Minaret Kalta-Minar

Kalta minar (short minaret) is one of the city's most recognizable landmarks.

Its foundation is deepened by 15 meters, the diameter at the base is 14.5 meters. Kalta Minar was conceived by Muhammad Amin Khan as the largest and tallest in the Muslim world. According to his plan, the height of the minaret was to be 70-80 meters. Since the minaret is not completed, it has a height of only 29 meters, which is only a third of its planned height. The construction was not completed due to the death of the Khan in 1855, who died during the battle.

By the 2,500th anniversary of the city, the minaret was restored. During the restoration, unique patterns and inscriptions were restored. This is the only minaret completely covered with glazed tiles and majolica.



Madrasah of Muhammad Rahim Khan

Madrasah of Muhammad Rahim Khan

The madrasah was built in 1871-1876 by order of the Khorezm Khan Muhammad Rahim Khan II.

Khan was known as one of the most enlightened and educated rulers of Khiva of his time. He carried out a lot of improvement work, carried out many different political and economic, educational reforms. Several new schools have opened with new teaching methods. There they studied not only traditional religious sciences, but also secular ones: mathematics, literature, astronomy, geography. The disciples composed poems and found out the truth with the help of scientific disputes, in which Muhammad Rahim Khan himself sometimes took part. The khan himself wrote poetry under the pseudonym Feruz.

Madrasah stands out among other educational institutions for its size. In addition to the educational part, it had two mosques – a winter and a summer one, more than 70 living quarters. Muhammad Rahim Khan arranged comfortable classrooms inside the building and supplied the library with the necessary valuable manuscripts.



Nurullabay Palace

Nurullabay Palace

Nurullabay Palace conveys the history of Khiva in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and is not inferior to other palaces in beauty and charm, splendor and splendor.

Muhammad Rahim Khan II bought the garden from a rich man from Khiva Nurulla-bai and decided to build on its territory a large summer palace for his son, Prince Asfandiyar Khan. The merchant sold the garden on condition that its name remained the same. The palace complex was built in 1893-1904.

One could get into the palace through the front gate, inside which there were special rooms for the guards and the office.

The palace acquired its final appearance during the reign of Asfandiyar Khan. It was rebuilt at the request of the khan, in particular, a separate building with a ceremonial hall for receiving dignitaries was erected. Special fired bricks were specially made for the reception area. The walls were covered with oil paints and carved patterns. The ceilings were decorated with floral designs and angels.

In seven halls, porcelain fireplace stoves were installed, as well as luxurious electric chandeliers, which was an innovation for the Khiva Khanate. A small engine was installed to make all the lights come on at the same time.

To date, the residence has been restored and restored to its original form. This palace complex consists of 9 large and small rooms, a reception room, an archive, a madrasah, a room for servants and guards, a garden and flower beds.



Mausoleum of Pakhlavan Mahmud

Mausoleum of Pakhlavan Mahmud

This architectural ensemble is an example of the ancient Khorezm architecture of the pre-Timur era. Mazar is not just a tourist attraction, but also a place of pilgrimage.

Pakhlavan Mahmud lived in the 13th century (1247-1326). He came from a family of artisans, but became famous as a poet, healer and a man of extraordinary physical strength, which is why he was called a hero. He took part in fighting and strength tournaments in India, Afghanistan, Iraq and Iran.

Previously, he was known under the literary pseudonym Pir Yar-Vali. Unfortunately, most of the poet's manuscripts have not survived to this day, but some can be seen at the Institute of Oriental Studies in Tashkent.

A grandiose ensemble appeared around the burial place of the great poet and educator, Sufi and philosopher. Initially, the mazar was modest. He was buried in the courtyard of his leather workshop. Over time, his burial began to overgrow with other graves, turning this place into a large cemetery. Later, a mosque was attached to the mazar, a khanaka and outbuildings were erected. Gradually, it became an architectural complex with the largest dome. His mausoleum is considered a Sufi pir (burial place where a Sufi saint rests).

The first mud brick mausoleum was erected over the tombstone of Pakhlavan Mahmud in the 17th century. It was a small structure - a single-chamber mazvol with one dome – which subsequently collapsed. In 1835, on the ruins of the old one, a new building of baked bricks was erected, which has survived to this day.

The architectural complex of Pakhlavan Mahmud is an example of how a building from a modest mausoleum eventually turned into a magnificent ensemble, decorated with his poems, religious sayings and the names of masters.



Baths of Anush Khan

Baths of Anush Khan

This unique object was built in the 17th century, presumably in 1657-1664 and is the earliest architectural monument of this kind. Baths-hospitals were built in honor of Anush Khan by order of his father.

There is an unusual legend about the life of a father and son. One of the most respected rulers of Khiva, Abulkazi Khan, had 9 sons. And the khan passionately wanted the tenth child to be a girl. However, a boy was born again in the khan's family. But, not wanting to upset the father, the sex of the child was hidden from him for many years and even the name at birth was given in honor of his beloved concubine – Armenian Anushi. Years passed ... Abulkazi-khanu was captured in one of the battles with the emir of Bukhara. The nine eldest sons decided to take this chance and take its place, not caring about the fate of their father. And the younger, without hesitation, in the guise of a girl went to the court of the Bukhara emir to rescue his father. The emir grinned at the fact that not sons, but a daughter came for the father, and agreed to Anushi's condition, without causing harm, to release the prisoner if the young beauty could indescribably surprise Vladyka. The Emir of Bukhara had no idea that the girl could really surprise him. When Anusha threw off her maiden clothes, the emir saw the body of the young man and had to admit his defeat. Abulkazi Khan himself was surprised no less than the others, but he did not get angry for years of deception. Abulkazi Khan returned to Khiva with his son, and upon his return he uttered: "I thought that I had nine sons, but Providence showed that I have only one son – Anusha". In gratitude, the khan built a mosque and baths-hospitals, and named them in honor of the tenth son of Anush, who remained faithful to him.

Like many structures of the ancient world, the baths were built for centuries, impress with the thoughtfulness of water supply, heating and drainage systems. The technologies used in construction were quite progressive for the middle of the 17th century.

Outside, you can see only the domes of the bath with openings for light, since for the preservation of heat, most of them are underground. The interiors include a spacious lobby, private dressing rooms, and steam rooms.

The complex has been preserved in good condition and after 350 years it continues to serve as a hospital and health center.



Ak-mosque

Ak-mosque

The mosque is located near the eastern gate of Palvan-Darvoz of the Ichan-Kala fortress. Its name is translated from Uzbek as "White Mosque" and it is an exemplary example of a quarter mosque.

According to custom, a mosque was built in each mahalla so that believers had a place for prayer and various religious rituals.

In 1657, during the reign of Anush Khan from the Sheibanid dynasty, the foundation of the mosque was laid. The ruler of Khiva, Abulkazi-khan, just like the baths, began to build this mosque in honor of his tenth son Anush-khan, who saved him from the captivity of the Bukhara emir. The income from the erected baths was directed to the maintenance of the Ak-mosque.

However, the building itself was erected two centuries later in 1838-1842 by rulers from the Kungrats dynasty.

Despite its small size, the simple Ak-mosque is considered one of the worthy examples of medieval architecture in Central Asia.

It is built of baked bricks. The hall of the mosque, crowned with a dome with a pointed spire, has three galleries and a mihrab – a special niche pointing to Mecca. The walls are decorated with geometric patterns intertwined with phrases in Arabic. It was built without exquisite decorations, as it is an ordinary mosque for daily prayers. Only the windows and doors are decorated with wood carvings. Thanks to these ornaments, the mosque has an important decorative value.

In 1956-1960, the mosque was renovated and it continues to function to this day.



Juma Mosque

Juma Mosque

Initially, the building itself dates back to the 10th century. Once upon a time there was just a canopy on columns, under which believers gathered and prayed on Fridays. Construction of the building began in the 18th century.

Juma Mosque is very unique in its structure. The mosque is accessed from three sides and lacks portals, domes, galleries and courtyard.

There are small openings in the ceiling for light and ventilation. The ceiling itself is supported by 213 carved wooden columns. The oldest of these columns may have been taken from the city of Kyat, the medieval capital of Khorezm. Four columns with inscriptions in naskhi handwriting are of the same type to the columns of the Bagbanli mosque. Twenty-one columns date back to the 10th-12th centuries and bear Arabic inscriptions. Columns with a floral and floral pattern of the Khiva type of the 18th-19th centuries.

This is a functioning mosque to this day.



Madrasah Kazi Kalyan

Madrasah Kazi Kalyan

This architectural monument was erected in 1905 during the reign of the Uzbek ruler Muhammad Rahim Khan II, at the expense of the kazi-kalyans of Khorezm (chief judge) Muhammad Salim Akhund.

The appearance of the madrasah and its size are small, and do not differ from other contemporary madrasahs. There were only 15 hujras in it. But the principle of teaching in this madrasah was different. Here, along with the spiritual sciences, they studied jurisprudence, given legal knowledge regarding the norms and provisions of the collection of various taxes and fees (zakat).

Currently, the madrasah houses the Museum of "Musical Art of Khorezm", the exposition of which presents 352 objects reflecting the history of the development of music in Khorezm from ancient times to the present day.



Islam-Khoja complex

Islam-Khoja complex

The construction of the madrasah and the minaret was started in 1908 on the initiative of the chief vizier Islam-Khoja. The vizier was an enlightened man, admired European culture and tried to reform the life of the Khiva Khanate. This is one of the most conspicuous buildings in Khiva. Although the complex was built at the beginning of the 20th century, it is very similar to the architecture of the 11th-14th centuries.

The attractiveness of the buildings is in its unprecedented contrast: the highest minaret of the city next to a miniature madrasah. Therefore, the minaret seems just gigantic. Initially, this architectural landmark was assigned the role of a kind of lighthouse, which served as a landmark for travelers approaching the city.

The Islam-Khoja madrasah

Madrasah consists of 42 hujras and a large domed hall. The mihrab is decorated with majolica and ganch carvings, and the walls are decorated with glaze and tiles.

Minaret of Islam-Khoja

Its height is 56.6 meters, the diameter at the base of the minaret is 9.5 meters. Inside there is a winding brick staircase leading to the landing. At one time, the minaret performed several functions. It was at the same time an observation tower, was used for adhan (calling Muslims to prayer), invited the population to the nearest square to read the decrees of the ruler.

The complex was completed in 1910, and three years later the vizier was killed on his way home from the palace, as they say, on the orders of the khan.



Mausoleum of Uch-Avliye

Mausoleum of Uch-Avliye

The mausoleum, whose name translates as "Three Saints", was erected in the second half of the 16th century. It is located near the western wall of the Tash Hauli palace. There are many graves in this suburban cemetery, it was filled up until the 20th century. The earliest burial is dated 1561. This date is engraved on the carved door at the entrance. Over time, layering occurred on the walls of the mausoleum, as its walls were in close contact with the graves, and part of the building fell into the ground.

In 1821-1822 the mausoleum was restored for the first time. It was restored for the second time in 1980 after a heavy rain that damaged the front door, the columns of the mosque and the iwan. Now the mausoleum is a very famous and visited place.



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